A JOURNEY TO JAVA'S MAJESTIC SUMMIT

A JOURNEY TO JAVA'S MAJESTIC SUMMIT

MOUNT SEMERU

    Embarking on my first-ever mountain trek, especially to scale the highest peak in Java and the third-highest in Indonesia, was an extraordinary challenge. Yes, I was set to hike Mount Semeru. Although it wasn't my initial idea, the enthusiasm of my girlfriend and her friends to explore beyond Bali inspired the plan to hike Mount Semeru. Eventually, my girlfriend invited me to join, and I agreed, thanks to the flexibility of my online studies during the pandemic time. Before the trek, there were numerous preparations and group discussions. From setting the trip schedule to buying plane tickets from Bali to Surabaya, then train tickets to Malang, and arranging the hiking tour with the Semeru Bromo Tengger National Park agent, every detail was meticulously prepared. We also had to register for permission to enter Mount Semeru. However, there was a slight issue during the registration process, resulting in a delayed refund that hasn't been resolved yet. The next day, we tried registering again, and it was successful.

    On April 21, 2021, we set off for the airport for an early morning flight to Surabaya. Interestingly, six of my friends had online exams on the same day, so they took the exams at the airport. Fortunately, they finished before boarding the plane. Upon arrival in Surabaya, we headed to the train station for Malang. The train journey offered stunning views of nature. During the trip, I managed to attend online classes until we reached Malang. After that, we waited for transportation to the base camp in Toempang to prepare all the hiking necessities there. The next morning, we got ready to depart using an open jeep to Ranupani, the document verification point and the starting point for the Semeru trek. The journey to Ranupani was very enjoyable with the beautiful scenery of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. Upon arrival at Ranupani, we went through document verification for the 3-day, 2-night trek. Before starting, we met two hikers who were looking for a group to join, but unfortunately, it didn't work out due to their shorter trek duration. After verification, the nine of us received a safety and environmental preservation briefing, crucial for Semeru's challenging trail. The trek began around 11 am, starting with an easy path through local fields before entering narrower and steeper trails. Initially, one of our friends, Jeje, struggled and almost wanted to turn back after just 30 minutes of hiking. Despite that, we encouraged Jeje to continue, walking at a relaxed pace and taking frequent breaks.

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    The trail from Ranupani to Ranu Kumbolo had four checkpoint posts, each equipped with stalls selling various snacks and fruits. Personally, I enjoyed watermelon and fried snacks along the way. After reaching the third checkpoint, we took a long break as the trail to the fourth checkpoint was quite steep and challenging. We arrived at the Ranu Kumbolo base camp around 6 pm after about 7 hours of hiking. The view of Lake Ranu Kumbolo from the fourth checkpoint was breathtaking. We set up tents, cooked dinner, and cleaned up before resting. The next morning, we woke up early to witness the stunning sunrise over Lake Ranu Kumbolo. The serene atmosphere, coupled with the cool mountain air, made it one of the best moments of the trip. We also began cooking and preparing to continue the trek. Around 10 am, after tidying up everything, we resumed the journey through the "Bukit Cinta" (Love Hill). The ascent was quite steep and required extra effort, but the view was worth it. During the hike, one of our friends, Jeje, felt exhausted and had to rest. We walked slowly, taking frequent breaks, to ensure Jeje could continue. Upon reaching the summit of "Bukit Cinta," we rested for a long time to admire the beauty of Lake Ranu Kumbolo and the vast expanse of Edelweiss flowers ahead. After spending time at "Bukit Cinta," we realized that we had forgotten something important back at Ranu Kumbolo. Andre and I went back down to retrieve a water jug we had left behind because it was crucial for our journey to Kalimati. Upon returning, we felt drained and exhausted.

   The next part of the trail was downhill, call "Oro Oro Ombo" and traversing a vast field of edelweiss flowers. We reached the Cemoro Kandang checkpoint, rested, and continued to the next checkpoint, taking our time and replenishing our energy with snacks purchased along the way. Two of our friends, Moko and Adnan, hurried ahead to fetch water from the Kalimati spring, while the rest of us proceeded at a leisurely pace. We reached the Kalimati checkpoint around 5 pm, where we set up tents and prepared for the midnight ascent to the summit. Kalimati is the last base camp located at the foot of Mount Semeru, about 3 km from the peak of Mahameru. We had to start the ascent at midnight to reach the summit at sunrise. Typically, the journey from Kalimati to the peak takes about 5 hours, so we needed to start hikeing at 1 am to arrive by 5 or 6 am. However, due to our relaxed pace, we began the hike at 11 pm.

    Before the ascent, we had a light meal to provide energy. We only brought food and drinks for the hike, leaving the rest of our belongings in the Kalimati tent. Our group of eight, consisting of three women (my girlfriend, Resti, Jeje) and five men (myself, Andre, Andri, Adnan, and Yugo), with Yugo serving as our guide as he had hiked Semeru several times before, started the hike. The first two hours of the ascent were quite tense as we navigated through the dark forest and steep terrain, testing our adrenaline. Unfortunately, Jeje felt nauseous and couldn't continue to the summit. She decided to return to the Kalimati tent, accompanied by Yugo. The remaining six of us continued to the summit, encountering increasingly challenging terrain as we ascended into the rocky slopes and loose gravel after vegetation border. After traversing half of the steep sandy terrain my girlfriend soon experienced fatigue and stomach pain. We encouraged her to keep going, but safety was our priority, and if she couldn't continue, I promised to accompany her back down. She decided to stay behind, and we watched the sunrise together from our high vantage point. Resti, Adnan, Andre, and Andri continued the hike to the summit.

      After about 30 minutes of solitude, my girlfriend and I decided to descend because the cold air was making us shiver, which wasn't good. We descended slowly back to the Kalimati checkpoint, where Moko, Yugo, and Jeje were waiting. We reached Kalimati around 6 am, where we enjoyed the beautiful morning scenery, took photos with Mount Semeru in the background, cooked breakfast, and cleaned up before starting the descent to Ranupani. As we waited until 11 a.m. for the other four friends who hadn't arrived yet, even the last hiker who reached Kalimati didn't see them. We were deeply concerned at that moment. On one side, we had to descend that day and report back from the hike since our hiking permit was only for 3 days and 2 nights. We divided into groups where Moko and Yogo attempted to hike to the vegetation limit to find our other four friends, while I was asked to accompany two hikers from Malang named Lius and David to descend as quickly as possible to reach Ranu Pani before 4 p.m., the deadline for our hiking permit. Since I had to descend quickly, Utari and Jeje continued to wait for the others to arrive at the Kalimati tent. I hastily grabbed my backpack and some supplies.

    Around noon, I, along with David and Lius, ran down from Kalimati without stopping until we reached Ranu Kumbolo at 2 p.m. to rest for a moment and collect the garbage we had left the day before. We then continued our journey back to Ranu Pani. Lius had been consistently ahead of me and David during the descent. Between posts 3 and 2, where Lius was resting with two other hikers, we caught up with them and rested together. At that moment, Lius experienced a cramp in his leg and told me to descend first and entrusted his hiking permit to me so that I could reach Ranu Pani by exactly 4 p.m. to report our descent. I descended alone, carrying two hiking permits from our group plus one from Lius's group. I ran as fast as possible without stopping because the terrain was quite easy and downhill. After passing post 1, the weather changed and it started raining. When I reached for the raincoat, I found Utari's raincoat in my bag that had been left earlier, hoping they wouldn't get soaked.

    Around 4:15 p.m., the Semeru security post had closed, but thankfully, they still accepted our mountain descent report for our group and asked about the whereabouts of the group members and the other two groups, wondering why I only had the hiking permits from their group. I could only deny that they were still on their way down, suggesting that the presence of a woman was slowing them down. Thankfully, they accepted that reason and checked for garbage and ID returns. It was a crazy thing I did, needing 2 days to hike from Ranu Pani to Kalimati, but I didn't expect to descend from Kalimati to Ranu Pani in just 4 hours by running without stopping. After returning to the Ranu Pani village post, I cleaned up and waited at the post hall for my friends and David and Lius. At that moment, there was a great worry about the condition of my friends whom I hadn't heard from yet because there was no communication connection in the forest, so we couldn't send each other any news.

       As darkness fell, they hadn't arrived yet, and without any news, but the rain continued to pour, making me even more worried. Around 7 p.m., the driver who brought us there was anxious and waiting for the others. Around 8 p.m., I received a message from Jeje, whose phone still had battery, informing me that they were all on their way down and split into two groups. The three people who had reached the summit, Resti, Adnan, and Andri, rested at Ranu Kumbolo because they were very tired. The other group, Utari, Jeje, Moko, and two hikers from Lius’s group, rested at post 2, where there was a bit of signal. Andre and Yugo continued to descend despite the darkness and rain. Upon receiving that news, I felt calmer, but I hadn't received any news from David and Lius yet. While waiting for them, I planned to stay overnight at the Ranu Pani village post hall with two other hikers.

        Around 10 p.m., while we were having coffee, David came to get me and asked for Lius's hiking permit from their group and his ID. He also said that Lius was evacuated by the rescue team because he sprained his foot. David asked me to go to the Ranu Pani security post to provide a statement. When I arrived at the post, I saw Lius sitting with a sprained foot being treated. David and I provided the statement of our descent. We spent quite a long time at the security post chatting and having tea with the officers until midnight, then the officers suggested that we rest at the nearby hiking post. We then carried Lius with the help of the officers to rest at the post.

       The next morning, I saw Andre and Yugo resting at the post hall. The three of us were still waiting for the arrival of the other friends. Fortunately, the driver who picked us up was very kind and patient. Around 10 a.m., Utari's group, Jeje, Moko, and Lius's two friends arrived. At that moment, I felt relieved. A few moments later, Resti's group, Adnan, and Andri also arrived at Ranu Pani. We all gathered again, cleaned up, showered, and tidied up our equipment to return to Tumpang. Meanwhile, I had an online class that morning. We returned to Tumpang to return the rented items and pack all our belongings to go to Yugo's house in Malang. After arriving at Yugo's house in the evening, we were all exhausted, but we were warmly welcomed by Yugo's family. We were asked to rest and stay there for the night. We ate together, shared stories, and talked about our hiking experience, where there were many unforgettable moments. After spending a long time together, we started to rest because the next morning, Utari and I had to go to the train station, where we had to return to Bali earlier because I had exams for several courses.

    The next morning, after showering, eating, and packing, we were taken to the train station by the other friends. During the train journey to Surabaya, it turned out that Utari forgot to bring her wallet, which was left at Yugo's house. The wallet contained an ID for the flight tickets from Surabaya to Bali. We contacted our other friends to bring back the wallet to Bali. During the train journey, we kept hoping that Utari could still board the plane. Thankfully, upon arriving at Juanda Airport in Surabaya and showing her ID photo, she was able to board the flight back to Bali. We arrived in Bali in the evening, very tired after the long 6-day adventure, but the adventure would be an extraordinary and unforgettable experience.

    In conclusion, my journey to Mount Semeru was filled with challenges, camaraderie, and moments of both joy and worry. From meticulous planning to facing unexpected hurdles during the hike, every moment was a learning experience. Despite not reaching the summit, the bonds forged with my friends and the memories created will forever remain cherished. It was an adventure of a lifetime, one that taught me the importance of perseverance, teamwork, and cherishing every moment of the journey.

Semeru April 2021

A SOLO ESCAPE TO BANDUNG DURING THE QUIET DAYS OF TRAVEL

A SOLO ESCAPE TO BANDUNG DURING THE QUIET DAYS OF TRAVEL

It was a strange time to travel. The world was slowing down, borders were uncertain, and airports felt emptier than ever. But in the middle of all that uncertainty, I found an unexpected opportunity, a flight subscription deal that almost felt unreal. For around IDR 1.7 million, I could fly as much as I wanted for six months, paying only a small administrative fee of about IDR 20,000 per flight.

So I took it. And one destination that had been quietly calling me was Bandung.

Day 1, Arrival and the Freedom of Going Solo

Landing in Bandung felt different. The air was cooler, lighter, very different from Bali. The city sits about 2–3 hours from Jakarta by land, but it has its own personality: a mix of colonial charm, creative culture, and mountain air.

I kept things simple. Backpack only. I rented a motorbike for around IDR 80,000 per day, cheap, flexible, and perfect for exploring. Fuel was affordable too, roughly IDR 20,000–30,000 per full tank for daily use.  For accommodation, I stayed in a modest boutique hotel in the city center, around IDR 250,000–350,000 per night. Clean, comfortable, and enough for a solo traveler who just needs a place to recharge. That night, I started my ritual: exploring Bandung through food. Street food stalls, small cafes, and late-night eateries filled the streets. A simple meal, like nasi goreng or mie ayam, cost around IDR 20,000–40,000. Cheap, warm, and satisfying.

Day 2, Volcanoes and Misty Tea Fields

The next morning, I rode north to Tangkuban Perahu, about 30 km from the city center. The road slowly climbed, the air getting colder with every turn. Standing on the edge of the crater felt surreal. The massive volcanic basin stretched wide, with steam rising gently from below. The smell of sulfur lingered in the air, reminding you that this mountain is still alive.

Entrance fee was around IDR 50,000 for domestic visitors at the time, and parking was minimal. From there, I continued deeper into the highlands toward the tea plantations. The fog rolled in quietly as I reached the endless green fields. This is where Bandung truly slows down.

I stopped at a small tea stall, ordered a warm cup of local tea (around IDR 10,000–15,000), and just sat there… surrounded by silence, mist, and layers of green hills fading into the distance. No rush. No noise. Just presence.

Day 3, A Slow Morning and High Cliff

That morning, I didn’t rush. No alarm, no strict plan, just letting the day start on its own. I woke up a bit later than usual, enjoying the quiet comfort of doing nothing for a while. That’s one of the best parts of solo traveling: you move at your own pace.

By late morning, I got on my motorbike and headed toward Maribaya Hot Springs, about 45 minutes from the city center. The road took me through winding hills and cooler air, slowly leaving the busy city behind. When I arrived, the atmosphere immediately felt calmer surrounded by trees, fresh air, and the gentle sound of flowing water.

I spent some time there, just soaking in the warm mineral pools. The heat of the water mixed perfectly with the cool mountain breeze. It wasn’t just relaxing it felt like a reset.
Entrance at the time was around IDR 25,000–50,000, and it was worth every rupiah for the experience.

In the afternoon, I continued the journey to Tebing Keraton.The road got narrower and slightly more challenging, especially as I got closer to the top. But the real reward came when I arrived.

Instead of chasing sunrise like most people do, I came for the late afternoon and it turned out to be just as magical. The valley stretched endlessly in front of me, covered in layers of green forest. As the sun slowly moved lower, the light became softer, warmer, casting long shadows across the landscape.

There were fewer people compared to sunrise hours, which made the mom
ent feel more personal. Quiet. Undisturbed. Entrance fee was around IDR 15,000–25,000, and the view? Easily priceless.

Day 4, Rain, Fog, and the Journey to Kawah Putih

The last big destination was Kawah Putih, about 2 hours south of Bandung.
But this journey was different. Rain started early and didn’t stop. The road became wet, fog reduced visibility, and the temperature dropped significantly. My camera got soaked, my jacket was no longer enough, but somehow… it made the experience even more memorable.

When I finally arrived, the place looked like another planet. A white crater lake, surrounded by fog so thick it erased the horizon. The water had a pale, almost surreal color, constantly shifting depending on light and sulfur content. Entrance fee was around IDR 50,000–75,000, plus a shuttle fee to reach the crater. Despite the rain, or maybe because of it, this became one of the most unforgettable moments of the trip.

Every night, I returned to the city. I explored areas like Braga Street, where colonial buildings still stand, and visited Gedung Merdeka, beautifully lit at night. The atmosphere was calm far from the usual crowds. Simple pleasures, but they completed the experience.
 
After 3 nights and 4 days, it was time to return to Bali. But traveling during that time wasn’t simple.
Before flying, I had to take a COVID-19 swab test, something that felt unfamiliar and slightly stressful back then. Airports were quiet. Everyone wore masks. Distances were kept. It didn’t feel like normal travel, but it made the journey more meaningful.
 
This trip wasn’t just about Bandung. It was about a moment in time, when the world slowed down, and traveling felt different. Going solo made everything more personal. Every decision, every stop, every wrong turn, it was all mine. Bandung gave me everything:
mountains, mist, rain, food, silence, and a sense of freedom. And sometimes, that’s all you really need.
 

Bandung, January 2021